wave breaking
Water curling over
Wave breaking is the process where an ocean wave becomes unstable and collapses, typically as it approaches shore and the water beneath grows too shallow to support its height.
The crest curls forward and falls, releasing energy as turbulent whitewater.
Surfers seek the moment just before breaking to ride the wave's face: The wave breaking created perfect conditions for the competition.
- surfWaves near shore
- tube rideJourney through tunnel transit
- crestHighest point or tuft
- foamBubble-filled substance
- white waterTurbulent, aerated river flow
whitecap · crash · curl · shore · barrel · spray · swell · tide · roar · tumble · sand · reef · heavy water · undertow · rip · churn · thunder · collapse
- wave physicswavelength, frequency, amplitude, superposition, node
- ocean physicscurrents, tides, salinity, thermocline, upwelling
- wave sciencewavelength, peak period, spectral analysis, energy distribution, dispersion